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Trek # 17

K a n c h a n j u n g  h a

- 19 Days Eastern Nepal

Day 01 Fly Kathmandu – Biratnagar

A flight to Biratnagar takes 45 minutes from Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel in Biratnagar and overnight.

Day 02 Biratnagar – Taplejung – Lalikharka

To avoid clouds and wind, Taplejung flights operate early in the morning, so you can probably accomplish a few hours of walking in the day you fly in the Airport is on the top of ridge in SUKETAR village, far above Taplejung. from SUKETAR, elevation 2300 metres, the trail climbs gradually along a rhododendron covered ridge. The trail crosses the ridge and contours past the Deorali river and four more streams to a pass at 2570 metres. Descend through forests to LALIKHARKA. Walk approximately 4 hours.

Day 03 Lalikharka- Shikaicha Bhanjyang (2020 m.)

Trek through fields to the substantial Lumbu village of THEMBEWA AT 1880 METRES. From Thembewa, the trail ascends a bit to a ridge, then drops steeply through Shimu and Pokhara villages to a suspension bridge across the Phawa river at 1430 metres. There is a good swimming hole here and a possible campsite near the river. Climb steeply to Khunjari, a Limbu village at 1700 metres. Turn left just beyond the school and climb through wheat fields to a sadly. From here, the trail makes a long, looping traverse to SHIKAICHA BHANJYANG, a Gurung settlement with several shops, on a pass at 2120 metres. From here, there are views of Kanchenjunga and Kyabru.

Day 04 Shikaicha Bhanjyang – Mamamkhe (1810 m.)

The trek has now entred the Kabeli river valley, but you will spend the nest two days climbing up and down, in and out of ravines and over ridges, only to end up in Yamphudin at the botom of the valley. Turn left from Bhanjyang and head north just below the top of the ridge, descending to the scatterd village of Keswa at 1960 m. Pass below waterfalls and cross several streams and landslide to reach the village of Phun Phun, which is shown on some maps with the fanciful spelling fun. Cross a saddle, with a stately Pipal tree offering a rest in the shade, and traverse a Yangpang, then head generally upwards through forests past a large waterfall. Descend throgh a series of side valleys to two shops on a ridge at 1850 metres, then drop a bit to Phonpe village at 1780 metres. Descend steeply through rice terraces into a side canyon, crossing a stream on a long suspension bridge at 1540 metres, then climb back to Mamanke, a prosperous Limbu village with bhattis, shops and a large school.

Day 05 Mamamkhe - Yamphudin (1690 m.)

Climb to a ridge and then descend gradually to the Tenguwa river. Forgo the decrepit bridge; cross the stream by jumping from stone to stone. Switchback steeply up to another ridge marked by a chorten and prayer flags, then descend across rubble and rock slides and cross another stream. This portion of the valley is steep, and portions of the trail are on cliffs high above the river as it makes its way down to the Kabeli river at 1640 metres. There is a lot of flood damage here, so it becomes a rockhopping exercise, over boulders, tree roots and intersecting stream channels as you head upstream. Stay on the west side of the Kabeli river, climbing gently to yamphudin at the junction of the Omje river and the Kabeli river. Yamphudin is a massed community of Sherpas, Lumbus, rais and Gurungs. Among the corn and rice fields of the village there is a police post, a school, and some shops with minimal supplies. The 1989 monsoon produced floods that washed away portions of the village and many of its fields. A goat trail leads from Yamphudin up the ridge to the west to Helok and the tamur kosi Valley.

Day 06 Yamphudin - Torontan (2990 m.)

Cross the Omje river on a couple of bamboo poles and follow the Kabeli river upstream for a short distance, ignoring the suspension bridge. After you pass behind a ridge out of sight Yamphudin, cross a small stream and take a trail that heads straight uphill. Zigzag up through fields of corn and barley to Darachuk, and keep climbing past meadows to Dubi Bhanjhyang, a pass at 2540 metres. Cross the stream on a log bridge, and go a bit further upstream to Omje river. Trek all the way passing through the villages of Chitre (2920 m.) lamite Bhanjyang (3410 m.0 then the trail emerges into the open just above the Simbua river. A 1987 flood washed away large parts of the trail. Stay above the white silty river and follow it upstream, on a series of ascents and descents, to temporary bridge built of stones and logs. There are campsites near the river, and also in a clearing beyond Torantan, near a few caves.

Day 07 Torontan - Tserma (3870 m.)

The hike starts in forests of several varieties of rhododendron, then crosses landslides to Tsento Kang, a goth at 3360 metres. The deeply forested valley is dotted with clearings, meadows and streams as it rises to another Goth at Watha. An hour beyond is Buddhist shrine decorated with rock cairns, prayer flags and iron, three-pronged trisuls. The shrine is in a cav that has a streak of dark stone slang it, which is though to be the image of a snake. This shrine marks the boundary of a sacred part of the valley, beyond which the killing of animals is prohibited. Peaks begin to appear in the distance as you climb further. There is a short stretch along the gravel bottom of the streambed, then a climb to Tseram, a large, flat meadow with a single house at 3870 metres. The settlements in this valley are goths used by yak and cow herders from Gunsa who cross the Mirgin La to graze their animals during the summer.

Day 08 Tseram – Ramche (4620 m.)

Climb through forests to a slide area; the junction of the trail to Mirgin La is nearby, but trail is hard to find. Stumble across a stream on a loose, rocky path and climb to some main walls and a stone house near the tree line at 4040 metres. The peaks of Rathong and Kabru doom at the head of the valley; it's hard to believe they are both less than 6700 metres high. The trail climbs into the valley alongside the moraine of the Yalung Glacier. The valley opens up as you approach Yalung, a pasture full of Yaks at 4260 metres. Climb alongside the moraine through scrub junipers up a stream to a lake at Lapsan 4430 metres. here you can see the start of the route to the Lapsang La headed off over the moraines in a valley to the north. Keep climbing to another lake and a big meadow at Ramche. There are two well-built stone houses here; one of them thinks it is a hotel, but the owner spends so much time away that it rarely fulfils its ambitions. The spectacular Rathong peak dominates the view, elevation 678 metres, situated on the Nepal-India border to the east. Herds of blue sheep live on the cliffs above.

Day 09 Ranche - Oktang (4800 m.) 
Day 10 Oktang - Ramche (4620 m.)
Day 11 Ramche – Tseram (3870 m.)
Day 12 Tseram – Ghunsa (3440 m.)

Today, the trail ascent steeply 1000 metres from Simbua river valley and cross five passes i.e., unnamed pass of 4724 metres, Mirgin La 4663 m., Sinion La 4660 m., an unnamed 4115 m. an a final Tamo La 3900 m. The route enters the Gunsa Village at 3440 m. Gunsa is slowly developing into a trekking village and has a few shops and lodges. The prayer flag bedecked houses of Gunsa (which means "winter settlement") are on the south side of the river at 3430 metres. The police checkpost in Gunsa take itself very seriously.

Day 13 Ghunsa - Kyapra (2730 m.)

The valley widens as you trek through fields and larch forests to a Tibetan village PHERA with pleasant Gompas and friendly monks; you may find a better supply of food, especially potatoes. Follow along the river through a fir and rhododendron forest into a side ravine the ascend steeply towards Kyapra, called Chapla or Gaabla by the Tibetan inhabitants.

Day 14 Kyapra – Ghaiya Bari (2530 m.)

From here climb steeply down to a large waterfall in the Gunsa river. The trail makes many short climb and descents and passes several waterfalls and pastures. Trek into lush bamboo, oak rhododendron forests with views of Nango Ma and the south-west part of the Kanchenjunga Massif. Descend for 100 metres, to the Tibetan settlement of Amjilassa at 2490 metres. From here the descent becomes gentler to the settlement of Ghaiya Bari, today's our camping place.

Day 15 Ghaiya Bari - Chirwa (1190 m.)

Follow the riverbed for about a km. and descend steeply for 100 metres. The hike is along a steep, narrow trail up the north bank of the Ghunsa river. You will have good views of Jannu up the Ghunsa river valley. The trail makes more ups & downs, traverses a landslide, crosses the Tamua river on a suspension bridge above the village of Helok. There is a teashop near the junction where the trail to the Limbu village of Helok leaves the main Tamur Kosi route. There is a bridge across the Tamur that leads to the Chhetri village of Tapethon and continue to the Chirwa, a pleasant bazaar with a few shops at 1190 metres. Take a look at the village water-supply system. It's an elaborate setup of bamboo chutes, pipes and channels that Rube Goldberg or health Robinson would have been proud of - if it has not yet been replaced with plastic pipe.

Day 16 Chirwa – Gadidanda

Trek all the way down, passing through scattered villages of Pirke, Tawa and Siwa. After about 45 minutes cross the river on a bamboo bridge to reach the ridge of Sisnu walk gentlytowards Gadi Danda.

Day 17 Gadidanda – Dhobhan (640 M.)

Today the trail descends all the way down the Dhoban. Dhoban is a small, grabby Newar bazaar town with shops selling soap, tooth paste, thread, sandals, beera and rums. Many Tibetans live in flimsy bamboo shelters alongside the bazaar, and sell tongba and weave woolen scarves and aprons.

Day 18 Dhoban - Taplejung

From here, trek all the way on the Ilam - Taplejung road leaving the Basantapur trekking trail on right side.

Day 19 Fly Taplejung to Biratnagar and connecting flight to Kathmandu.

After breakfast, walk to Taplejung Airport to board Biratnagar flight. Arrival Biratnager Airport again to board Kathmandu flight. Arrival Kathmandu meet and transfer to hotel.

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